Linen Weaving

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Linen Weaving

Johann Friedrick Blanck (1747-1827), his son, Gerhard (1771-1849), and his grandson, Christopher (1817-?), where linen weavers in Lehe, Germany. Lehe is a suburb of Bremerhaven.

To see images of Lehe, Bermerhaven and Bremen go to Bremen/Bremerhaven/Lehe now or at the bottom of the page.

Bernard Winter, Die Webstube, 1896, Landesmuseum für Kunst und Kulturgeschichte Oldenburg, Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

During the middle ages linen was used throughout Europe for shifts, tunics, towels, bedding and ship's sails.

Linen is made from the fiber of the flax plant. Linen has many advantages as a fiber but the process from seed to fabric is labor intensive.

The small oily seeds are sown in the spring. They are sown close together so there is less branching of the plant and minimal weeding is necessary. Flax quickly depletes the soil so it is planted as a rotation crop.


Personification of Linen
Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2013

Flax seed
Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Flax plant with flower
Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Flax in bloom
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg, Photo collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

The flax plant has a slim stem which grows to a height of between two and three feet and is ready for harvest about 100 days after sowing. It is usually harvested in July and August.


Flax field
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg, Photo collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2009

Examining a Field of Flax, Saskatchewan, Canada


Flax is pulled from the ground with the roots and gathered into bundles.


Collection of Maggie Land Blanck

This image shows flax harvesting in the sate of Washington, USA. In the United States flax was generally grown for seed. The quality of the fiber was not as fine as that grown in certain European countries.

Flax seed oil (known as linseed oil) is used in paints and varnishes. Flax seed is also used in cattle feed.


Flax harvest, Belgium 1865
Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2013

An American farmer with a load of flax.
Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck

An American farmer with teams after the flax had been pulled.
Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck

Postcard collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2009

I thought these images represented flax harvest in Germany. However, I am a city person and I was wrong.

In August 2010 Gary A Mischke wrote:

"When I was a boy, my father occasionally raised flax in Minnesota. During WWII it was an important commodity in the war effort and I remember many barn sized stacks of flax straw bales stacked along the highway south of Windom, Minnesota, destined for war production, although I don't know what was actually made from them.

On two of your photos you suggest that they may show flax harvest in Germany, but that as a city girl you are not sure. These are most likely photos or illustrations of oats or barley harvesting. The bundles are too long for flax and the seed heads visible on the first "shock" in the left photo appear most like oats. As a boy, I helped harvest oats in Minnesota in this manner. The grain is cut with a machine called a "binder" and tied with twine in bundles. Workers then walk through the fields and stack the bundles in these upright piles called "shocks". They are piled this way to allow the grain heads to dry. These "shocks" also allow rain to shed down the sides and prevent the seed heads from staying wet and rotting. After a week or two, farmers gathered the bundles in horse drawn hayracks and hauled them to a central point, usually near their livestock barns where a "Threshing machine" separated the seed heads from the straw. The straw was blown into a large pile to be used for animal bedding through the winter.

In the 1940's we harvested flax with a "combine", a threshing machine that travelled through the field separating flaxseed from the straw. The straw was expelled onto the ground and a "baler" followed along behind compacting the straw into bales tied with twine or wire. These were then sold as part of the flax cash crop, I assume for the production of linen."


Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2011

After Gary Mischke informed me that I did not have an image of the flax harvest, I went looking again.

"A PROFITABLE CROP: SHEAVES OF FLAX DRYING IN A FIELD

Flax is not reaped, but is pulled by hand when golden-ripe in seed, fastened in small bundles, and set up in sheaves to dry. Besides being laborious it is often painful work, the tiny thorns upon the branches pricking the skin and being apt to cause blood poisoning."

I believe that this image represents flax harvest in Europe. Another image in this article is of a flax related process in Belgium and the flip side of the page is entitled "BELGIUM AND THE BELGIANS". Unfortunately, this article is not dated and I do not know the publication - one of the downsides of buying articles torn from old magazines.

Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

La culture du Lin

Printed on black:

Entassement

Engrange ou entasse a l'air, le lin attend sous le ciel mouvant et l'atmosphere humide de la vallee le moment du rouissage.

Very loose translation with the aid of Google translator: Harvested or reaped linen awaits the moisture in the valley atmosphere to ret the flax.


Photo Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

In looking for images of flax bundles I took the above picture in 2005. I'm a city girl and missed the finer details. It turns out these bundles are more likely straw or reeds for thatching the roof.

In March 2012 Teri Comans kindly set me straight when she wrote:

I don't think that the sheaves in the pictures are flax. I think they are more likely to be reeds for thatching. The bunches are too straight and neat. The bottoms are cut not pulled and they have been banged on the ground to make them all uniform. This is a typical thing to do with reeds or straw for thatching.

Teri Comans

I'm leaving the picture in because I think the old barn is really beautiful.

Stereo-card collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Retting Flax Courtai, Belgium


Retting flax Belgium 1865
Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2013

Stereo-card collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Retting Flax Courtai, Belgium

In order to separate the fiber from the woody stalk the flax must be retted. Retting allows bacterial action to cause the stalk to loosen and decompose. Needless to say it is a smelly process. There are two methods of retting. The flax can be submerged in a pond or stream for a few days. This method produces a golden or cream colored thread. The flax may also be retted in the field allowing the morning dew to do the same work as the pond. Field retting takes up to six weeks and the flax must be turned periodically. It produces a silver grey thread.

When the outer stems are sufficiently decayed the flax is laid out to dry.


Flax bundle and a linen towel
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg, Photo collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Rippling
Celle Bomann Museum

The stems are deseeded in a process called rippling. The rippling comb is secured to a bench and the plants are held near the root and pulled through the comb. The seeds fall onto a cloth placed under the bench. The deseeded flax is left to cure until ready to use.

Flax comb

Victory Collectibles, an eBay store, had a number of beautiful old flax and linen tools. They were kind enough to allow me to use this image.


Next the brake (a large wooden thrash) is used to loosen the boon (the woody part of the plant) from the fibers.


Breaking
Celle Bomann Museum

Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2011

"AFTER THE FLAX HARVEST IN WUTTEMBERG

One process in the preparation of flax is known as "scutching." In this the stems are passed through a rude mangle or press, and are then beaten in order to remove all traces of woody core. The fibre is then tied up in bundles known as sticks, seen on the right, and is ready for market. Although scutching mills are now very general, the process is still preformed by hand in many places"


Scutching flax, Belgium 1865
Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2013

Flax comb courtesy of Victory Collectibles

Additional boon is removed when the flax is beaten against a board with a large wooden knife in a process called scutching.


Flax Scutching Bee by Linton Park 1885, National Gallery, Washington , D. C., Reproduction bought on Ebay, 2009, collection Maggie Land Blanck

Brechflachs (Broken Flax) or Boon

This type of residual of the flax was used to stuff seats.


At this stage of the process the remaining material is separated into line, tow and boon. Line is the long fiber that will eventually be used to weave the linen. Tow is short fibers that can also be woven into course material or made into paper and insulation. It was also used to clean the barrels of muskets. Boon can also be used as mulch or burned as fuel.


Tow

Light blonds were called tow headed or flaxen haired.


Hackling
Celle Bomann Museum

The final process, called hackling, is when the fiber is drawn through a series of combs to remove any remaining boom and tow. Over 85% of the plant has been removed in the process of arriving at the end product called strick.
Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2011

"STAGES IN A HOME INDUSTRY OF IMMEMORIAL ANTIQUITY

The culture of flax for manufacture into linen goes back to prehistoric times. Of almost primitive simplicity are these flax-combs with which the Belgian women draw the flax to cleanse and separate the fibrous portion from the rest and make it fit for yarn."


Hackling, Belfast Ireland, 1905

From back of card: "The work is in one sense rough and heavy, in another sense very delicate. An unskilled man, drawing a bundle of long flax fibres over those ugly, sharp teeth, might easily break them so that the result would be a mere handful of broken remnants. An expert worker knows how to handle the stuff so as to comb out each course fibre into a bundle of smaller, parallel fibres, with the least possible waste in the way of unevenness and breakage."

Stereo card collection of Maggie Land Blanck

The long thin fibers resembling human hair have to be handled carefully to keep them from tangling. A distaff is used to keep the fibers separate and in line during spinning. The flax wheel is traditionally a small wheel. The flax needs to be continually moistened while spinning.


Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck

Young ladies with spinning wheels and distaffs


Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Schwarzwalder spinnstube


After the thread is spun the yarn, now called linen, is stretched and boiled to set the twist put in by the spinning.

Flax is a valuable crop not only for the linen. The seeds are harvested for linseed oil. Linseed oil has been used for wood treatment, paint, animal fodder, lamp oil, cough medicine, laxatives and other medicinal purposes. Linoleum was make from linseed oil and ground cork.


Spinning linen
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg. Photo collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2005 Spinnen und Winnen

Collection of Maggie Land Blanck

Flax-Spinners, 1887, by Max Lieberman (German Artist, born 1847)


Print collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2013


Linen thread on spools
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg. Photo collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Weaving linen
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg. Photo collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Linen Loom
Celle Bomann Museum. Photo collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Linen Loom
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg. Photo collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Postcard collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2009

Linnen weaving and spinning.


Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2011

A woman at her linen loom in Monchgut, Island of Rugen, Germany.


Hand weaving, the flax industry in Belgium 1865
Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2013

Factory weaving, the flax industry in Belgium 1865
Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2013

Bleaching, the flax industry in Belgium 1865
Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2013

Photo Maggie Land Blanck, 2012

Unbleached, bleached and died line thread and bleached linen cloth, Museum Cloppenburg, Germany.


Stahlstown, Pennsylvania has a flax Scutching festival every September. There is a lot of info on the Internet about this festival.

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Copyright by Maggie Land Blanck - This page was created in 2004 - Latest update, October 2015