Linen Weaving

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Blanck Introduction
Bremen/Bremerhaven/Lehe

Linen Weaving

Johann Friedrick Blanck (1747-1827), his son, Gerhard (1771-1849), and grandson, Christopher (1817-?), where linenweavers in Lehe, Germany. Lehe is a suburb of Bremerhaven. To see images of Lehe, Bermerhaven and Bremen go to Bremen/Bremerhaven/Lehe now or at the bottom of the page.

Bernard Winter, Die Webstube, 1896, Landesmuseum für Kunst und Kulturgeschichte Oldenburg, Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

During the middle ages linen was used throughout Europe for shifts, tunics, towels, bedding and ship's sails.

Linen is made from the fiber of the flax plant. Linen has many advantages as a fiber but the process from seed to fabric is labor intensive.

The small oily seeds are sown in the spring. They are sown close together so there is less branching of the plant and minimal weeding is necessary. Flax quickly depletes the soil so it is planted as a rotation crop.


Flax seed
Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Flax plant with flower
Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Flax in bloom
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg, Photo collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

The flax plant has a slim stem which grows to a height of between two and three feet and is ready for harvest about 100 days after sowing. It is usually harvested in July and August.


Flax field
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg, Photo collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2009

Examining a Field of Flax, Saskatchewan, Canada


Flax is pulled from the ground with the roots and gathered into bundles.


Collection of Maggie Land Blanck

This image shows flax harvesting in the sate of Washington, USA. In the United States flax was generally grown for seed. The quality of the fiber was not as fine as that grown in certain European countries.

Flaz seed oil (known as linseed oil) is used in paints and varnishes. Flax seed is also used in cattle feed.


An American farmer with a load of flax.
Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck

An American farmer with teams after the flax had been pulled.
Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck

Postcard collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2009

I believe that these images represent flax harvest in Germany. However, I am a city person, so I could be wrong.


Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

La culture du Lin

Printed on black:

Entassement

Engrange ou entasse a l'air, le lin attend sous le ciel mouvant et l'atmosphere humide de la vallee le moment du rouissage.

Very loose translation with the aid of Google translator:

Harvested or reaped linen awaits the moisture in the valley atmosphere to ret the flax.


Stereo-card collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Retting Flax Courtai, Belgium


Stereo-card collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Retting Flax Courtai, Belgium

In order to separate the fiber from the woody stalk the flax must be retted. Retting allows bacterial action to cause the stalk to loosen and decompose. Needless to say it is a smelly process. There are two methods of retting. The flax can be submerged in a pond or stream for a few days. This method produces a golden or cream colored thread. The flax may also be retted in the field allowing the morning dew to do the same work as the pond. Field retting takes up to six weeks and the flax must be turned periodically. It produces a silver grey thread.

When the outer stems are sufficiently decayed the flax is laid out to dry.


Flax bundle and a linen towel
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg, Photo collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Rippling
Celle Bomann Museum

The stems are deseeded in a process called rippling. The rippling comb is secured to a bench and the plants are held near the root and pulled through the comb. The seeds fall onto a cloth placed under the bench. The deseeded flax is left to cure until ready to use.

Flax comb

Victory Collectibles, an eBay store, has a number of beautiful old flax and linen tools. See Victory Collectibles


Next the brake (a large wooden thrash) is used to loosen the boon (the woody part of the plant) from the fibers.


Breaking
Celle Bomann Museum

Flax comb

A flax beater from sco Victory Collectibles


Additional boon is removed when the flax is beaten against a board with a large wooden knife in a process called scutching.


Flax Scutching Bee by Linton Park 1885, National Gallery, Washington , D. C., Reproduction bought on Ebay, 2009, collection Maggie Land Blanck

Brechflachs (Broken Flax) or Boon

This type of residual of the flax was used to stuff seats.


At this stage of the process the remaining material is separated into line, tow and boon. Line is the long fiber that will eventually be used to weave the linen. Tow is short fibers that can also be woven into course material or made into paper and insulation. It was also used to clean the barrels of muskets. Boon can also be used as mulch or burned as fuel.


Tow

Light blonds were called tow headed or flaxen haired.


Hackling
Celle Bomann Museum

The final process, called hackling, is when the fiber is drawn through a series of combs to remove any remaining boom and tow. Over 85% of the plant has been removed in the process of arriving at the end product called strick.

Hackling, Belfast Ireland, 1905

From back of card: "The work is in one sense rough and heavy, in another sense very delicate. An unskilled man, drawing a bundle of long flax fibres over those ugly, sharp teeth, might easily break them so that the result would be a mere handful of broken remnants. An expert worker knows how to handle the stuff so as to comb out each course fibre into a bundle of smaller, parallel fibres, with the least possible waste in the way of unevenness and breakage."

Stereo card collection of Maggie Land Blanck

The long thin fibers resembling human hair have to be handled carefully to keep them from tangling. A distaff is used to keep the fibers separate and in line during spinning. The flax wheel is traditionally a small wheel. The flax needs to be continually moistened while spinning.


Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck

Young ladies with spinning wheels and distaffs


Postcard collection of Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Schwarzwalder spinnstube


After the thread is spun the yarn, now called linen, is stretched and boiled to set the twist put in by the spinning.

Flax is a valuable crop not only for the linen. The seeds are harvested for linseed oil. Linseed oil has been used for wood treatment, paint, animal fodder, lamp oil, cough medicine, laxatives and other medicinal purposes. Linoleum was make from linseed oil and ground cork.


Spinning linen
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg. Photo collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Collection of Maggie Land Blanck

Flax-Spinners, 1887, by Max Lieberman (German Artist, born 1847)


Linen thread on spools
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg. Photo collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Weaving linen
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg. Photo collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Linen Loom
Celle Bomann Museum. Photo collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Linen Loom
Freilichtmuseum am Kiekeberg. Photo collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2005

Postcard collection Maggie Land Blanck, 2009

Linnen weaving and spinning.


Stahlstown, Pennsylvania has a flax Scutching festival every September. There is a lot of info about this festival on the Internet.

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If you have any suggestions, corrections, information, copies of documents, or photos that you would like to share with this site, please contact me at maggie@maggieblanck.com

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